Electric Bicycles, SUV of the future?

While the thought of bicycling to your daily commute or even errands, may seem daunting, with an electric bicycle, this is almost eliminated. These electric bicycles are comprised of at least six components. These are, the frame, the battery, the motor, the controller, the throttle, and the charger. While you could just hook up a cordless drill to your chain and call it an E-bike, it would be extremely difficult to drive, not to mention the unfulfilled need for torque. Let's start with the most apparent component, the motor.
The motor can take three forms:

• A 'pedal' motor
• A 'grunt' motor
• A hub motor

Of the three, by far the most prominent is the hub motor. Why? These motors allow you to keep your pedals, and are easy to install. The 'pedal' motor is a motor that replaces the pedals. And the 'grunt' motor is in a similar position to the hub motor, but drives a gear which is the wheel.
The next decision is brushed or brushless. The brushless motor uses a brush, whereas the brushless one doesn't. As a result, the brushless motors are more efficient and more expensive, whereas the brushed are less efficient, more powerful, cheaper, and the brush needs to be replaced every few years. Considering that most of the hub motors are brushless, cost only a 'little' more (about $50 to $100) and are maintenance-free.
Where are you going to put your hub motor? You have two places, the front and the rear. If you need to tow about 200lbs of trailer up hill, then a dual hub is for you, but bear in mind that the dual system will literally double your cost. The front motor has certain advantages:

• Easier to install
• Steers easier
• You can use both wheels at the same time when you pedal
• Balances the weight easier

It also has certain disadvantages:

• You'll need to install a torque arm
• No front suspension
• Difficult, if not impossible to install disc brakes
• Little traction

Similarly, the rear has it's pros:

• No loss of traction
• Easily install a front disc-brake
• Allows for front and rear suspension
• No torque arm required

And it's cons:

• Poorly balanced weight
• Dropouts might need to be adjusted
• Harder to install

Thanks to CGameProgrammer on VisforVoltage forums (source of reference). Now, All that's left is to decide which motor. There are a broad selection of motors from a handful of different companies:

• Wilderness Energy's BD-24 - A 24-volt, 600W brushed hub motor
• Wilderness Energy's BD-36 - A 36-volt, 600W brushed hub motor
• Wilderness Energy's BL-36 - A 36-volt, 600W brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Sparrow - A cheap brushed hub motor
• Crystalyte's Roadrunner - A cheap brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Phoenix Brute - A powerful brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Phoenix Cruiser - A powerful and fast brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Phoenix Racer - A fast brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Cannon - A 36V, 500W brushless hub motor
• Crystalyte's Journey - A 36V, 500W brushless hub motor
• BionX P250 - A 24V ,250W brushless hub motor that allows disc brakes
  
• BionX P350 - A 36V, 350W brushless hub motor that allows disc brakes
  
• BionX P500 - A 36V, 500W brushless hub motor that allows disc brakes

Next, are the batteries. There are three basic types: SLA, NiMH/NiCd, and Li-ion/Li-Poly/LiFePO4. Each has it's strength and it's weakness. SLAs are cheap, but very heavy, and very big. NiMH/NiCd, they're about half the weight of SLA, but about 70% heavier than Lithium, they're also priced between lithium and SLA too. Then there's Li-ion/Li-Poly/LiFePO4, these are very light, and also very expensive. So really, the low-end is SLA, the mid-range is NiMH/NiCd, and the high-end is Li-ion/Li-Poly/LiFePO4. Get the best you can afford, the difference in weight between SLA and Li-ion is enormous, and you'll know if your batteries die.
Then there's the controller. These are measured in Amps, and in Volts. The Volts is the voltage at which it runs, and the Amps is the maximum amperage. For most uses, aim for about 40A. Also, the 7240 controllers for the Phoenix motors are very powerful, and can go up to 45MPH on a Racer! Bear in mind, though, that the maximum legal limit is 20MPH, though I seriously doubt any trouble at 23MPH, but I'm not a lawyer so I cannot and will not be held liable or responsible for your actions. Another thing to look for is a key 'ignition'.
Next is the throttle, which is mainly a matter of preference, unless your bike uses twist shifters, in which case you'll need a thumb controller. There are six variations, and three kinds:

• Thumb
• Twist
• Half-twist

I don't need to say anything except that a half-twist isn't "twist halfway for full throttle", rather it means how long it is. And then there's the variation of whether or not it has a battery gauge on it.
The only thing left now is the frame. If you have a long commute, you may want a recumbent. Always go for a steel frame, and if you're going to install a front motor, make sure it doesn't have a front suspension. Aluminum isn't strong, even if it's a whole 2lbs lighter, therefore, avoid it.
One last thing, the charger. Make sure it's good for your kind of battery chemistry and follow the advice of the manufacturer.

"Don't be evil"

The "Don't be evil" motto certainly summarizes Google's legal behavior. As I'm probably one of the only people who actually read the Terms of Service, I can say that Google's is just that - not evil. Though it was ridden with loopholes as with most, Google's TOS certainly reflected the spirit upon which the corporation was founded. I for one, certainly appreciate that no third party transferral of private information was allowed without consent or Google's data handling, and, quite unfortunately, in accordance with government request. I do realize that a corporation such as Google can't simply refuse to comply with the gov't (or infantile gestapo), and as such it is forgiven. Again, at the very end of the TOS it stated that it complied with the DMCA, again I realize the pressure Google's under, but somehow I just feel like I wanted more.